traveling - R. Couri Hay

Half Moon Jamaica

R. Couri Hay — Mon, 20 May 2019 13:26:00 +0000

Discover Half Moon, the luxury resort in Jamaica with R. Couri Hay. R. Couri Hay, a New York City-based publicist and founder of R. Couri Hay Creative Public Relations. He started his career as one of the original contributing editors to Andy Warhol’s Interview Magazine and went on to write for a variety of publications including Travel Squire and Social Life. Travels with Couri takes you on an adventure to some of the most premier resorts and locations around the world. Follow along with Couri as he shares some tips, tricks, and recommendations when traveling. From floating bars in Jamaica to art galleries in Berlin, Travels with Couri will inspire you to travel the world and become immersed in new cultures.

Half Moon Jamaica

The Royals’ favorite Jamaican hotel

Prince Harry went on a charm offensive while staying at the Half Moon resort in Jamaica. Although he was on an official visit to the island nation, celebrating the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee his stay at Half Moon also provided him with a few days’ breaks from his Royal duties. The approachable Prince delighted his butler, cook, and housekeeper tending his five-bedroom oceanfront villa, shaking hands and posing for photos with the staff members.

“Prince Harry was informal and fun to be around, and he seemed to enjoy his time here,” confided his cook, Denise Graham. She whipped up traditional Jamaican fare including smoked jerk chicken and saltfish with green bananas for the ginger prince. “He was very complimentary to myself and the rest of the villa staff and told me he would love to come back.”

Harry’s grandparents, HRH Queen Elizabeth II, and Prince Phillip have been repeating guests at Half Moon as has his father, Prince Charles, and stepmother Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall. The media has dubbed Half Moon “The Royals’ favorite Jamaican hotel.”

Jackie and President John F Kennedy

Though Jamaica is a former English colony, it’s not only the British Royals who have graced this lush tropical paradise near Montego Bay. Monaco’s late Prince Rainier and his daughter, Princess Caroline, have also stayed on the 400-acre property, and American “royals” Jacqueline and John F. Kennedy spent time here before his inauguration as president.

Eerily, Jackie Kennedy wrote out a handwritten will while at the resort; a copy hangs in the lobby.

Hollywood loves Half Moon

It’s not only heads of state that enjoy Half Moon’s lush gardens, 11 tennis courts, 54 swimming pools, myriad water sports, a world-class spa, spectacular 18 holes, par-72 championship Robert Trent Jones-designed golf course, and equestrian center – riding a horse along the beach and into the water is magical! Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Sir Richard Branson, LL Cool J, and 50 Cent have all stayed here. Stevie Wonder had just left and while I was there, country music superstars Faith Hill and Tim McGraw and their three kids were taking a relaxing break from their year-long tour.

Hospitality starts at the airport

It’s only 3½ hours from New York to the soft breezes and warm waters of Montego Bay, and the Half Moon resort has a welcoming lounge inside the small airport, your first sign of the Caribbean hospitality to come.

Our driver, Perry, one of Jamaica’s authentic characters, whisked us to the Half Moon, ten minutes from the airport. I highly recommend booking Perry to take you around in his comfortable, air-conditioned, white Lincoln Town Car – he can tell you where to go and what to see. (876) 899-4308

We enter through the resort’s elegant iron gates; at the end of the drive is a Greek temple-like portico with imposing Corinthian columns, a touch of colonial-era grandeur. Once in the lobby, there are majestic views of the water from the Great House – the vast property boasts two miles of private beachfront. From the terrace, you see the crescent-shaped white sand beach for which the hotel is named.

Founded by 17 Families

Half Moon was founded in 1954 when seventeen families who purchased 35 acres of land on the half-moon-shaped bay. These pillars of the industry including Harvey Firestone Jr. of the tire company, Richard S. Reynolds Sr. of Reynolds Metals and Mrs. Laurance Armour of Armour Packing vacationed on Jamaica’s north coast and decided join forces to create a winter escape of their own. The original resort consisted of 17 cottages and 30 hotel rooms.

The Half Moon has grown over the years, now boasting 400 acres, 210 rooms and suites, 31 private villas, and a staff of over 800. It is still owned by some descendants of the original group.

West Cottages

Ten of the original cottages, known as the West Cottages, are still in use today, and they are the place to stay if you can score one. Some of the cottages have pianos and their own pools.

My favorite, Cottage #1 sits at the end of the main beach, offering ultimate privacy and a shady palm grove, which was perfect when you’ve had enough sun.

These cottages are set far enough away so that they are quiet, yet the resort’s restaurants and bars are an easy walk away. The oceanfront junior suites are another great option, and if you’re bringing children, you can book an adjoining room.

The rooms in the suites are expansive, with generous indoor and outdoor seating areas with panoramic views of the turquoise Caribbean. Bathrooms are enormous, great for the whole family, and my four-poster bed added a touch of old school island charm.

If you’re traveling with a large extended family, Cottage 7 is a great option, with six bedrooms. Just steps from the water, you can hear the waves lapping at the beach at night.

Luxurious, spacious suites and villas

Rooms, suites and villas at Half Moon are very spacious, the smallest room is a 350 square feet, and suites are as large as 1900 square feet. All have outdoor space, patios or terraces, and many feature private pools.

Dining

You do not need to leave the Half Moon grounds to satisfy any hunger pangs, with multiple restaurants, and cafes on the property. You don’t even have to leave your room, as private dining is available – and you can create the ultimate romantic, intimate dining experience for two at any of the resort’s many dreamy locations, including an over-water gazebo, secluded beaches, or your own balcony or patio. Pop the question or fall in love all over again as the candlelight flickers in the gentle trade winds.

Sugar Mill restaurant

Sugar Mill is not only Half Moon’s signature restaurant, it is one of the top fine dining spots in all of Jamaica. Yes, the Royals have eaten at this award-winning place. Located on a historic former sugar plantation, chef Christopher Golding uses locally sourced ingredients and island flavors and spices for a modern spin on Jamaican cuisine.

A walk through the lush gardens, past a waterwheel, still operational, that was once used to mill the sugarcane, brings you to the newly renovated space. Specialties include a kebab of jerk sausage, pork, beef, and shrimp flamed with rum at the table, and yam risotto, the yam substituting for rice.

We loved our meal of cornbread with olive spread, fresh grouper that melted in your mouth, and the Wagyu striploin, a signature dish.

Seagrape Terrace

Seagrape Terrace is outdoor dining at its finest. Sample a wide selection of international cuisine with breathtaking views of the sea. With the fabulous weather, this spot is ideal at any time of day, and breakfast, lunch, and dinner are all served. They also offer internationally themed buffets, and there’s entertainment in the evenings.

Il Giardino

Authentic Italian cuisine in Jamaica? Yes, thanks to affable chef Cosimo Riccardi, who hails from Naples. Riccardi uses seasonal local ingredients and natural herbs from the Half Moon garden in classic dishes from southern Italy. Pastas are made fresh, in-house, and you can enjoy your meal al fresco, or inside, in air-conditioned comfort.

The Houseboat Grill, Montego Bay

It’s always fun to go out and explore other restaurants, I suggest the Houseboat Grill in Montego Bay. You arrive by raft to this charming boat where Steve McQueen lived while filming the movie Papillion in 1973. During a Jamaican music festival, this boat served as a lounge for the likes of Aretha Franklin, The Beach Boys, Sting, The Grateful Dead, and the B-52s.

Dress casually, and be sure and ask to be seated upstairs with a view of the bay and the twinkling lights of the city. Start with the spicy pepper shrimp and, if it’s in season, try the lobster. End with the decadent molten chocolate cake with a scoop of ice cream. You can work it off at Half Moon’s Gym. Thehouseboatgrill.com

Fern Tree Spa

Half Moon’s Fern Tree Spa, the largest in the Caribbean, is a world unto itself with its own glamorous pool and waterfall where you can have lunch in between your treatments. Try the signature Fern Tree Remedy, a 90-minute treatment package that ends with a refreshing rum body splash and a shot of carrot juice. Fern Tree’s list of treatments extends for 29 pages, so rest assured you can be pampered all day long.

In addition to steam rooms and saunas, you can take private treatments in tranquil tropical gardens, an outdoor yoga pavilion, a meditation labyrinth, and overwater bungalows, which are rare in this part of the world. You can indulge while listening to water lapping gently instead of piped-in music.

Championship Golf

Half Moon’s golf course is stellar, named one of the best in the Caribbean, Designed in 1964 by the legendary Robert Trent Jones Sr., and updated by Roger Rulewich in 2005, it is home to many official PGA tournaments, including the European PGA Senior tour and the Jamaica Open.

The challenging course is beloved by golf enthusiasts, and also offers grassed practice greens, putting greens, a clubhouse, pro shop, and a snack bar that serves lunch.

Bring the kids

Half Moon treats kids like VIPs, and the resort has a Children’s Village for ages 3 to 12 to play, learn and make friends.

Professional nannies are on staff, and activities are supervised by trained, certified, coordinators affiliated with a Penn State University child-care program. You can choose from half-day, full-day, and 3 and 4-day packages, snacks and lunch are included. During the summer when school is out, Half Moon runs a day camp to keep the little ones entertained.

Equestrian Center, with ponies for kids

And there are pony rides! Half Moon’s acclaimed equestrian center includes a pony park where children age six and under can safely learn to ride under supervision. Kids also love the rabbits, goats and donkeys in the park.

For grownups, there are horseback riding options for all skill levels. Novices can try the “rookies roundup,” private lessons are on offer, as well as riding, jumping and polo. Most popular ride on the beach, at a slow pace, guided by trainers, so even beginners can do it. And people rave about the “Turf & Surf” ride, which includes swimming in the sea with the horses. It’s suitable for adults and children over 10 years, but some riding experience is necessary.

Mixing tradition with modernity

While classic Anglo-Caribbean architecture, luxurious rooms and impeccable service have been Half Moon signatures since day one, the resort is looking to the future, having just undergone a $75 million renovation and extension in time for the opening of the 2018 season in November and its 65^th anniversary in February 2019.

The extensive upgrades include three new restaurants, including a vegan café, new bars, an elegant new entrance to the grounds, an adults-only pool, an expanded beachfront with a natural swimming cove, and 57 new suites, rooms and cottages. The new lobby, designated The Great House, will be the vibrant heart of the resort.

Halfmoon.com 800-626-0592

Greenwood Great House

History buffs will want to go to Greenwood, Great house that was owned by the family of the poetess Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Built in 1780, this plantation house was unscathed during slave rebellions, and remains largely intact today, with authentic furnishings and rare objects. You’ll find the original library, artwork, and a collection of rare musical instruments, some of which the tour guide will play for you.

Bob and Anne Betton bought Greenwood in 1975 and restored it over the years. I asked Mrs. Betton why she took on this huge project, and she replied simply, “I liked it.“ Sadly, she assured me, “There are no ghosts here.” This house has a 360-degree view of the horizon, and from the veranda, you can literally see the curve of the earth.

FreeStyle Catamaran trip

A sail on the stunning FreeStyle catamaran was a highlight of our trip. Jamaica Watersports offers cruises for fishing, snorkeling or just dancing and relaxing on deck while you sail the clear blue Caribbean. Arnold Schwarzenegger read a book during his five-hour spin, while Whoopi Goldberg smoked a spliff during her sail. It’s all good, man.

The wind is strongest from 11am to 3 pm, or take a sunset cruise with a good bottle of Taittinger. Half Moon will take care of everything. jamaicawatersports.com +1 876 381 3229

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St. Petersburg; Russia’s Most Beautiful City

R. Couri Hay — Thu, 16 May 2019 18:00:27 +0000

WHITE NIGHTS

Come to St. Petersburg for the White Nights in June and July, when the region boasts up to 21 hours of daylight. Delight in the wonders of this city that’s often compared to Venice and Paris because of its rivers and canals. But don’t be afraid to come in the fall or winter. On a recent visit in early spring, I watched a light snowfall silently over the tulips just beginning to peek out in the Hermitage gardens and dust the endless architectural treasures of this great and grand city. With so much to see and do in every season, this magical place calls for repeat visits, and those who love ballet, opera, and fine arts would do well to make it a regular destination.

FLIGHT

No direct flights connect New York to this city that has also been named Petrograd and Leningrad and then, in 1991, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, reverted to its original name. St. Petersburg was so named by Tsar Peter the Great, after his patron saint, who is traditionally pictured holding the keys to heaven. I wanted to get here quickly (12 hours, lol) so I flew through Warsaw, Poland, on a night flight that leaves JFK in the evening and arrives a day later, in time for dinner at the Four Seasons. I booked a perfect flatbed on Lot Airlines, where the service was friendly and the food tasty. Always ask for a single window seat for maximum privacy. After I landed, I was greeted by a lovely woman holding a golden tablet that signals the luxurious hospitality that is the Four Seasons Hotel. I was whisked to one of its newest palaces in a BMW 7 Series sedan.

THE LION PALACE, A FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

In 2013, after a six-year, multi-million-dollar renovation, the Four Seasons opened its heavenly hotel in the former palace of Prince Alexander Yakovlevich Lobanov-Rostovsky. This was the uber brand’s first property in Russia. Known as the Lion Palace, thanks to the imposing pair of marble lions flanking the entrance, the triangular, pale yellow, circa 1820 building is one of St. Petersburg’s iconic landmarks. Located in the heart of the city, at the intersection of Admiralteysky Prospekt and Voznesensky Prospekt, the Four Seasons is a short walk from other top sights, including the State Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. If you can’t look out your window and see a landmark immediately identified with the city you’re in, I believe you are in the wrong room or the wrong hotel. Luckily at this Four Seasons, you can’t go wrong. I woke up a little woozy from the flight to find two angels with enormous white wings perched outside my windows in front of a golden-domed cathedral. I thought I was hallucinating until I stepped onto my terrace and realized, of course, they were made of white marble. Next to the hotel is the magnificent St. Isaac’s Cathedral, one of the city’s most important landmarks. To see snowflakes brush St. Isaac’s golden dome that soars nearly a hundred feet into the sky is as close to heaven as many people will ever get.

SAINT ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL

But no worries if you’re not a believer. Saint Isaac’s was turned into a museum by the Soviet government in 1931 and is a must-see attraction. Completed in 1858 by order of Tsar Alexander I, the cathedral was designed by Auguste de Montfort-rand and still dominates the city’s skyline. Built to accommodate 14,000 worshippers, the soaring space features detailed mosaics and paintings, columns of malachite and lapis lazuli, and magnificent stained-glass windows.

TREATS AT THE FOUR SEASONS

At the Four Seasons, a different surprise arrives at your door every day, an unexpected treat for the guests. The first day I found a basket masterfully woven of chocolate with gold leaf edges that were filled with the most delicious chocolate truffles. Another day, a glass dome covered a tray of caviar-filled hors d’oeuvres, and my favorite was a blue Easter egg with city landmarks etched in gold. Because it’s Russia where every egg needs to contain a surprise, inside the egg, were hidden two scrumptious chocolate truffles. There are never enough tins of caviar or truffles n’estce pas?

THE HERMITAGE

The Hermitage is one of the greatest art museums in the world. It houses over three million priceless objects, which would take you more than ten years to see even if you spent only one minute on each piece of art — and that’s not taking into account the breathtaking gold leafed interiors and frescoes of Imperial-era Russia. Five of the buildings in the Hermitage complex are open to the public. It includes the Winter Palace, which Peter the Great established as his winter residence. Over nearly 200 years, Tsars and Tsarinas lived in, reinvented, and expanded the Winter Palace, until the Russian Revolution in 1917. Catherine the Great, who ruled from 1762 to 1795, added what is now known as the Small Hermitage to house her immense art collection. She patronized Russian and European painters, and she collected thousands of carved gems, especially cameos. Her collection eventually outgrew the space, so she added several extensions to the palace to house it. When it was the home of the royal family, court cats had free reign. Catherine the Great famously said: “There are few visitors to the galleries—only me and the mice.” Just some highlights of the Hermitage’s 17,000 paintings include works by Leonardo, Rafael, Titian, El Greco, Rembrandt, Rubens, and other Old Masters.

PALACE SQUARE, IMPRESSIONIST AND POST-IMPRESSIONIST PAINTINGS

Across Palace Square, at the General Staff Building, you’ll find some of the world’s most important paintings. At one time hidden away in the Hermitage attic, masterpieces like Matisse’s The Dance and Music, works from Picasso’s Blue and Red Periods, and paintings by Renoir, Manet, Monet, Kandinsky, among others, are now beautifully displayed in their own spacious venue. Some contemporary works are on display, but with so much else to see, your time would be better spent taking in other parts of this stellar collection. Tip: Ask the concierge at the Four Seasons to book the special 9 a.m. tickets and beat the crowds that usually arrive by noon. The museum officially opens at 10:30 a.m. It is definitely worth purchasing the separate tickets required to view the Gold and Diamond rooms containing treasures made of gold and diamonds.

THE MARIINSKY THEATRES

Highlights of the Mariinsky this season included the world premiere of Porte Rouge, the ballet choreographed by ABT ballerina Melanie Hamrick to music by The Rolling Stones, edited by Mick Jagger, her partner. The piece was originally commissioned by Larissa Saveliev, the director of Youth America Grand Prix, for the Spring Gala at Lincoln Center this year. The circa 1860 Mariinsky Theatre and its 2007 cousin, the Mariinsky II — a theater and concert hall — offer almost non-stop ballet, opera, and musical performances. Rimsky-Korsakov’s The Tsar’s Bride, a compelling opera about love, betrayal, and revenge, and the classical ballet Giselle, with a brilliant cast including Oxana Skorik as Giselle and Kimin Kim as Count Albrecht, were among the shows playing during my visit.

THE RUSSIAN MUSEUM

The State Russian Museum is the world’s largest depository of Russian fine art, and, like many of the popular attractions in St. Petersburg, it’s housed in an extravagant palace. Make that three palaces: the main collection is at Mikhailovskiy Palace, while the Marble Palace, acquired in 1992, houses contemporary art, and the Stroganov Palace, which contains 18th- and 19th-century works that were once owned by prominent families. Tsar Alexander III amassed a collection by Russian artists, and in 1895 his son Nicholas II, purchased the Mikhailovskiy Palace to house it. The confiscation of private collections after the revolution of 1917 proved to be a huge boon to the museum. Today it includes over 400,000 artworks covering Russian art from the 10th to the 21st centuries.

FABERGÉ MUSEUM

Billionaire industrialist Viktor Vekselberg had dreamt of returning national artistic treasures to Russia, and in 2004 he purchased 200 Fabergé objects owned by the American Forbes family for reportedly more than $100 million. He then took over the 19th-century canal-front Shuvalov Palace and restored its grandeur with elegant silk wall coverings, sparkling chandeliers, and gilded plasterwork as a setting worthy of this collection.

ROYAL EGGS

There are 14 of the 50 Royal Eggs here, including the very first, the “Hen,” created by Peter Carl Fabergé’s workshop in 1885 as an Easter gift for Emperor Alexander III’s wife. That first egg is deceptively plain, in cream-colored enamel over solid gold, because the Tsar directed Fabergé to make it realistic looking. The egg opens to reveal a gold yolk, which opens to reveal a hen with ruby eyes. A replica of the Imperial crown and a ruby pendant were the final surprises within the hen, but these went missing. Other eggs on display are fabulously elaborate works encrusted with gems. With over 1,000 Fabergé pieces, this is the world’s largest private collection, and the museum also contains 3,000 other pre-Soviet era Russian artworks.

FRIDA KAHLO & DIEGO RIVERA

The museum also hosts important traveling shows, and this spring they had an in-depth exhibition of works by Frida Khalo and her husband, the painter Diego Rivera, beautifully mounted in the palace ballroom that normally shows work by major Russian artists. This show is traveling around the world and if you’re lucky enough to be in place when it is on exhibit, don’t miss it. It’s at the Frist Museum in Nashville, Tennessee, from May 25 through September 2, 2019.

CHURCH OF THE SPILT BLOOD

There are a lot of gorgeous churches in this city and although some still serve as centers of worship, most have been turned into museums. My favorite is commonly called the Church of the Spilt Blood, more formally known as the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, and the name is due to the fact that it is built on the exact spot where Alexander II was assassinated with a bomb in 1881. His son, Alexander III, ordered the cathedral built, and the Griboedov Canal along which it stands was narrowed to allow the church to encompass the cobblestone road on which the tsar was attacked. The church is one of the most popular sights in St. Petersburg, in large part because of its striking, colorful architecture; it is so lavish, it took 24 years to complete. The interior is breathtaking as well, with over 23,000 feet of mosaic artwork, even inside the main dome. The church was heavily damaged during the Russian Revolution of 1917, and again during World War II, and was later used for storage. Eventually, St. Isaac’s Cathedral took over management of the building, undertaking a 25-year restoration which returned it to its former glory. Even in this staggeringly beautiful city, the Church of the Spilt Blood is considered a rare jewel.

YUSUPOV PALACE

One of the only imperial-era residences in St. Petersburg that retains much of its original interiors and furniture is the Yusupov Palace, home of the ultra-wealthy Yusupov family. What makes it famous isn’t its private theatre or rococo ballrooms that could hold parties for 2,000 people, but the fact that Rasputin, the magician, healer, or fraud that had the ear of Tsar Nicholas II, was murdered here in the basement apartment. Prince Felix Yusupov and his cohorts plied Rasputin with drugged wine, and then shot him, only to have him escape through a small door to the courtyard, where he was finished off and thrown into the Neva River. This is the stuff they write books about and make Hollywood movies of. There are tours of the chambers where Rasputin’s murder took place.

THE NAVAL CATHEDRAL OF SAINT NICHOLAS

A pale blue Russian Orthodox church known as the Naval Cathedral is where sailors prayed before heading out to sea, and inside are stunning stained-glass windows, and memorial plaques bearing the names of Russian naval officers and sailors who have fallen in battle.

PETER & PAUL FORTRESS

The main attraction on the island fortress of Kronstadt is the ornate church that boasts one of the most elaborate baroque altars in the world. This fortress was the first structure built in St. Petersburg in 1703. It was never used for defense purposes but has had a colorful history, most prominently its cathedral, which is the burial place of nearly all of the Russian royal family since Peter the Great. The graves of the Romanov rulers including Peter the Great, Catherine the Great, and Nicholas II and his family. The murdered Russian princess Anastasia is buried here despite the oft-repeated claims that she had escaped and was alive and well and living, well, almost everywhere. The fortress is also a popular gathering place for St. Petersburg locals, where walruses sunbathe on the beach and frolic in the water in all seasons. In warmer months, locals picnic and attend concerts and festivals here.

Go to St. Petersburg, You will treasure the experience.

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Queen Mary 2 Cruising Australia

R. Couri Hay — Fri, 10 May 2019 16:09:05 +0000

R. Couri Hay is a New York City-based publicist and founder of R. Couri Hay Creative Public Relations. He started his career as one of the original contributing editors to Andy Warhol’s Interview Magazine and went on to write for a variety of publications including Travel Squire and Social Life. Travels with Couri takes you on an adventure to some of the most premier resorts and locations around the world. Follow along with Couri as he shares some tips, tricks, and recommendations when traveling. From floating bars in Jamaica to art galleries in Berlin, Travels with Couri will inspire you to travel the world and become immersed in new cultures.

Queen Mary 2 Cruising Australia

SYDNEY TO SYDNEY

If you want to explore Australia and experience both the cultural and natural wonders of this enormous continent, Queen Mary 2 is absolutely the way to do it. During this year’s “World Voyage” the QM2 cruised into eight ports from Sydney to Perth, including Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Margaret River, Whitsunday Island, and Kangaroo Island. What’s exciting about the Queen’s annual adventure is that, with a little planning, you can join the ship almost anywhere in the world and see your choice of countries and cities. We chose a ten day, roundtrip, Sydney to Sydney cruise.

ROYALTY, VIPS & MOVIE STARS

Queen Mary 2 is the flagship of the Cunard Line and she is, without exception, the most luxurious passenger ship ever built. In 2004, Queen Elizabeth II christened this floating palace named after her grandmother. The queen proclaimed, “I name this ship Queen Mary 2. May God bless her and all who sail on her.” Countless VIPs have been welcomed on board during the QM2’s 14 years at sea, including Presidents Donald Trump and George H. W. Bush, French President Jacques Chirac, Prime Minister Tony Blair, and Hollywood luminaries Uma Thurman, George Lucas, Lenny Kravitz, Ed Sheeran, and Helen Mirren. The latter won an Oscar for her portrayal of Queen Elizabeth II in the movie The Queen and inscribed a painting of Her Majesty in the ship’s casino, “From one Queen to another.”

THE GREATEST SHOWMAN

Recently, Aussie star Hugh Jackman, Rebecca Ferguson, Zac Efron, and Zendaya celebrated the premiere of their movie, The Greatest Showman, with a dinner dance on the ship in New York City and everyone on board joined the party.

MAJESTY OF THE HIGH SEAS

Cunard launched the original Queen Mary in 1934, and it was considered the grand dame of ships, carrying Holly-wood royalty such as Marlene Dietrich, Fred Astaire, Audrey Hepburn, Greta Garbo, and Clark Gable during the heyday of transatlantic ocean travel. The glamour and allure of cruising in true luxury lives on in her successor. In fact, today this bastion of seagoing extravagance is glossier than ever, after undergoing an extensive $132 million stem-to-stern refurbishment in 2016. Deluxe cabins were added, and furnishings were replaced throughout the ship. Cunard even created the hashtag #qm2remastered. The ship famously allows pets on board, employing a kennel master to mind dogs and cats, and they didn’t forget Fido and Fifi in the QM2 renovation, adding more kennels as well as a kennel lounge where owners can hang out with their furry friends.

BOOK A POSH GRILL SUITE

The QM2 has multiple sailing options, with a category for everyone. That said, the two top choices are the Queens Grill and Princess Grill Suites. These staterooms are the ultimate in luxury — seating and dining areas, walk-in closets, and spacious private balconies with deck chairs to lounge in. Queens Grill guests even have their own personal butler. The service is unparalleled: we had an attentive butler, tour director, and concierge that finessed our every wish. They also made getting on and off the ship a breeze. Everything is so impeccable, you might want to consider staying on for-ever. Some lucky guests come close, signing on for the World Voyage from New York to New York for a total of 133 days. cunard.com

DINING IN THE GRILLS

Both grills have their own private lounges, upper deck areas, and dining rooms. Whichever you choose, request a table next to the window ahead of time, and if you score one at the very back of either of the grills, you will have water views on two sides. Grill patrons always have their own table, with a dedicated waiter and captain so this can be a very private experience, almost like being on a yacht. These dining rooms seat about 150 people, making it very cozy. Service in the grills is friendly and of the highest professional standard. The food is exceptional, and you can pre-order old school dinner dishes for two like Chateaubriand, duck à l’orange, and rack of lamb. These dishes are flambéed and then carved tableside for extra drama by the maitre’d. Don’t’ forget to order the individual soufflés. In addition to chocolate, they come in almost every flavor of the fruit. Chef Klaus Kremer has mastered this delicate confection. The wine list is excellent and the sommelier is happy to help you make the perfect pairings with each dish. If you want to meet people and socialize, you certainly can, but if you desire a more private or romantic experience, these grills are the perfect choice

DOWN UNDER

It’s a loooong flight to Sydney, a total of 22 hours in the air with a stop in L.A. Do yourself a favor and splash out for first class seats with a flatbed. We stayed at the Park Hyatt because of its location on Syd-ney Harbor. Be sure to reserve a room with a terrace overlooking the Sydney Opera House, which is the city’s major contribution to international architecture and art. This is the city’s top hotel, where all the stars stay, among them Lady Gaga, Madonna, and Kate Hudson (who was there when I was). Elton John stays so frequently he keeps his own piano there. The Hyatt’s bar and restaurant all have terrific harbor views. The chef is Etienne Karner, who trained in Michelin-star kitchens in France before landing in Sydney. Order the sumptuous tasting dinner that includes the signature dish: kangaroo tartar with quail egg, truffle mayo, radish, and sesame crisps. This goes beautifully with a 2016 Hans Herzog Pinot Gris or a glass of Champagne. hyatt.com Spend a day or two seeing Sydney before boarding the QM2. Our cruise started and ended in Sydney so we had plenty of time to see all the top attractions. Here are the best.

THE SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

Our balcony at the Hyatt overlooked the Opera House, which is arguably the eighth wonder of the world. We got up early to see the dawn break over the landmark, an unforgettable moment, and we promptly had Jonathan, the hotel’s prize-winning concierge, book a tour to see inside.

DANISH ARCHITECT

Jørn Utzon, an unknown Danish architect, designed the building in 1955, winning an international design competition. Weirdly, Utzen’s world-famous sculptural design was initially rejected by the judges, but finally the renowned architect Eero Saarinen convinced the panel to choose it. Construction began in 1959, but wasn’t completed until 1973, thanks to a string of snafus, including cost overruns; the final construction costs totaled $79 million. In 1966, payment problems forced Utzon to resign from the project, and he left Australia and never saw his completed masterpiece.

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE

Queen Elizabeth II opened the Sydney Opera House, and during the ceremony, she awarded Utzen the Gold Medal of the Royal Institute of Architects Australia, but he was not present to receive it. However, there was finally détente in the 1990s, when Opera House officials reached out, and Utzen again signed on as design consultant. He passed away in 2009 and it was made into a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. Despite its name, the Opera House has multiple purposes and presents many types of performance in addition to opera, including symphonic and popular music, and classic and experimental theater. We took the 4:30 pm tour, the last of the day, and simply stayed, had some Champagne, and saw Limbo, a sexy cabaret act.

MR. WONG

After the show, we had a late dinner at the Cantonese hot spot, Mr. Wong. Hidden down an alley, it is very popular and reservations are a must, but the food and the people watching are excellent. We had delicious dim sum, Peking duck with all the trimmings, and for dessert a very decadent fried vanilla ice cream with butterscotch on top. Divine. merivale.com

SYDNEY HARBOUR & BRIDGE

In the morning, we hired a speed boat to take us around Sydney Harbor, which is the center of life in Australia’s biggest city. We kept an eye out for native daughter Cate Blanchett, who has been known to pilot a small skiff around the harbor. Alas, we didn’t see her. The Sydney Harbour Bridge, affectionately known as “The Coat Hanger” thanks to its arched design, is another memorable icon of the city. Opened in 1932, the bridge took eight years to complete. High-wire artist Philippe Petit crossed the bridge on a tightrope in 1973, but you can legally cross the bridge on foot via a pedestrian walkway. It’s an easy stroll of about 30 minutes, with magnificent views. You can also ride a bicycle across. Those more adventurous — and not afraid of heights — can scale the top of the bridge on a guided “bridge climb.” bridgeclimb.com

BONDI BEACH, ICEBERGS CLUB

Bondi Beach is one of Sydney’s top sights and the most popular of the many stretches of golden sand rimming this sunny city. It’s only a few miles from the center of town, and easily accessible. Here you might see Justin Beiber, Liev Schreiber, or Naomi Watts body surfing. Our driver dropped us off at the end of the cliff-top coastal walk, a spectacularly scenic route that we strolled until we found Icebergs, Bondi’s top beach club. The place has killer views of the crescent-shaped beach and endless blue water. You can check into the club to use the facilities, including the Olympic size saltwater pool. The restaurant is usually totally booked, but we snagged a table in the bar; we didn’t have a white tablecloth as do tables in the main dining room, but the burger was juicy, and the views were just as fabulous.

BOARDING THE QM2 — TIMING COUNTS

The QM2 had dramatically moored in front of our balcony at the Hyatt; looking out at the ship and the Opera House, two giant landmarks on Sydney’s famous harbor was a rare privilege. Time to pack and board! The QM2 runs like a Swiss clock so we were able to check in effortlessly and seamlessly. Be smart and check ahead to find out when guests will finish disembarking and boarding from early flights, this is usually between 9:30 am and 2 pm. Presto smooth boarding at 3 pm allowed plenty of time to explore the ship before she sailed at 9:30 pm. Uniformed porters brought the luggage to our stateroom, which had another perfect view of the Opera House. It doesn’t get old.

EXPLORING THE QM2

The staff unpacked us while we explored the ship, which has a Canyon Ranch Spa Club, a gigantic movie theater that plays current blockbusters, the only planetarium at sea, a Vegas-styled showroom that features elaborate musicals, multiple gourmet restaurants, tea rooms, a Champagne bar, a ballroom with a 12-piece orchestra, a disco, a gym with a killer view of the horizon, five outdoor and indoor swimming pools, seven Jacuzzis. There are also games galore, including shuffleboard, ping pong, paddle tennis, backgammon, bingo, bridge, and way too many other activities to list here. Additionally, the QM2 boasts the largest library at sea, with breathtaking ocean panoramas; an hourly schedule of things to do, including: lectures by famous authors, actors, and scientists; classical concerts; piano and harp recitals; a long list of fitness classes, including yoga, stretch, and circuit training; and gambling in a fully equipped casino. Daily laps around the deck (three times equals one mile), leisurely naps in a deckchair under a colorful plaid wool blanket from Scotland, and a nightcap in the Commodore Club were just a few of things to look forward to.

AWAY WE GO

We ordered Champagne on our balcony so we could watch the changing light and the sunset over the famous roofline “sails” of the Opera House. Sailing out of Sydney Harbor past the Opera House on the QM2 is one of the most memorable visual experiences you will ever have, akin to watching the mist lift to reveal the Taj Mahal from the presidential suite at the Oberoi Amarvillas in Agra, or seeing the Pyramids for the first time. With the stars and moon lighting the way, tiny tug boats guided us out of the harbor. As the ship rounded the Opera House, the “sails” seemed to blow in the wind, and with lights ablaze it was a sight to behold and treasure forever. It’s Australia’s Eiffel Tower, London’s Big Ben, and New York’s Empire State Building. You need to experience this. AT SEA In honor of our first night at sea, Captain Peter Philpott invited us to a cocktail party to meet the ship’s officers. This was also the first of four formal nights, so don’t forget to bring your jewels as this black-tie ritual is very much alive on the QM2. We quizzed the captain about what we could expect to see in New Zealand, our ultimate destination. I can’t wait to tell you all about it, next time.

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