Denis Ferrara<\/strong><\/p>\n\u201cIT MAY not mean anything to you, but I am what is popularly regarded as the greatest couturier of the Western world.\u201d<\/p>\n
That was designer Charles James, asked to identify himself to an ambulance driver, hours before James died of bronchial pneumonia at a New York hospital in 1978. Indeed those might have been his last words.<\/p>\n
This comes from a new book, by Michele Gerber Klein, \u201cCharles James: \u201cPortrait of an Unreasonable Man \u2014 Fame, Fashion, Art.\u201d<\/p>\n
Somewhere in my mostly negligible knowledge of fashion, I\u2019d probably read something about Charles James, but \u201cbigger\u201d if not necessarily more talented, creative or adventurous names were more familiar.<\/p>\n
This book owes its existence not just to the determined interest and admiration of the author, but also to twenty hours of videotaped interviews conducted by writer R. Couri Hay, in the last year of James\u2019 life, during the designer\u2019s frayed but courageously elegant tenure at New York\u2019s fabled Chelsea Hotel.<\/p>\n
\u201cPortrait of an Unreasonable Man\u201d is a quite apt title, distilled in the remark of one of his fitters: \u201cA genius, but impossible.\u201d<\/p>\n
His spirit of independence and uncompromising attitudes toward his own work and the women \u2014 they had to be extraordinary! \u2014 who wore his clothes is exemplified in this tale by a French journalist and model, who knew him in the 1930\u2019s \u2014 \u201cDior told me he considered him the greatest talent of his generation; but impossible in every way.\u201d<\/p>\n
This lady was in Paris to attend a royal reception for England\u2019s King George VI. \u00a0\u00a0She asked Charles for a dress. \u00a0\u201cWhen I unwrapped it, I saw it was unlined and had no petticoat.\u201d \u00a0She wore another designer\u2019s gown. \u201cCharles was furious. I told him I couldn\u2019t wear it because it was see-through. \u00a0He told me it was meant to be see-through! \u00a0Only Charles could envision someone going to a royal reception in a completely transparent dress.\u201d<\/p>\n
The book is full of this kind of thing. Charles James, by every account was \u201cthe first\u201d in many a great fashion trend, but his slow, deliberate creating and a business sense without much sense, while it didn\u2019t exactly doom him to obscurity, he is not alongside the better known pantheons of Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel or even Halston, who apparently lifted many an idea from James.<\/p>\n
Lots of stylish dish, back-stabbing, whale-boned bitchery, tenuous professional and personal triumphs and setbacks; a cocktail party of a time and place \u2014 high life, low life, the vagaries of fashion \u2014 and fashion as \u201cart\u201d \u2014 from the 1920\u2019s to the 70\u2019s.<\/p>\n
Perhaps some of you know this \u2014 I didn\u2019t. \u00a0But the work of Charles James has been the subject of more one-person museum shows than that of any other fashion designer, as recently as 2014.<\/p>\n
I admit I wouldn\u2019t recognize a Charles James if I collided with a mannequin got up in one of his designs, but I loved this book, and could not help but admire the man\u2019s exquisite if sometimes detrimental resistance to compromise, right to the end.<\/p>\n
SPEAKING of fashion, I found two interesting articles in last month\u2019s GQ.<\/p>\n
One in which Mark Anthony Green extols the essential need for the derisively labeled \u201cmurse.\u201d This a small cross body bag, when a fellow needs to carry \u201cmore than a pocket can handle but less than a backpack allows.\u201d \u00a0I don\u2019t have one, but I have carried, on evenings, for years, a \u201cman clutch\u201d and feel quite comfortable with it. \u00a0Maybe a murse is next, for the summer \u2014 or perhaps more sensibly, a reasonably compact backpack; something that won\u2019t leave me feeling the need to visit a chiropractor. \u00a0I really don\u2019t cotton to anything \u201ccrossing\u201d my body.<\/p>\n
The other piece was by Sam Schube, titled \u201cDon\u2019t Leave Home Without Your Shopping Buddy.\u201d \u00a0This tells quite convincingly how fashion-challenged guys need another guy friend \u2014 a well-dressed fellow \u2014 to go shopping with them. \u00a0I\u2019ve always wanted to have the courage to do this. I even have a smartly dressed pal picked out (Scott Gorenstein you know I mean you!) \u00a0But being so insecure, I know I\u2019d have to kill Scott after a day of modeling outfits. \u00a0Perhaps, given his many insults to me over the years, he\u2019d feel that sacrifice was worth it. \u00a0I\u2019ll ask him.<\/p>\n
I\u2019VE\u00a0seen two movies, \u201c Borg Vs. McEnroe\u201d and \u2014 yes \u2014 \u201cRampage.\u201d\u00a0 And I\u2019ve been binging on things good and so-good-they\u2019re-bad on \u201cNetflix and Amazon, and also watching with nails bitten to the core, two of my favorite spy thrillers, Showtime\u2019s \u201cHomeland\u201d and TNT\u2019s \u201cThe Americans.\u201d (\u201cHomeland\u201d delivered its season finale on Sunday. And \u201cThe Americans\u201d breathes its dark and terrible last breath later this year.)<\/p>\n
I\u2019ll tell all about my viewings on Wednesday.\u00a0 Also, I finished that 700-page book on Edith Wharton\u00a0and then \u2014 all sense escapes me sometimes \u2014 I tackled another behemoth biography on Lord Byron.\u00a0Stay tuned!<\/p>\n
MAIL: \u00a0As I expected, an interesting cross-section of reactions to the column on Barbara Bush and Liz Smith. \u00a0Some liked it very much. \u00a0Others liked it with the caveat \u2014 \u201cdespite your column\u2019s liberal bias.\u201d (I replied to this person that they surely did not carefully read this space, or they would see I am increasingly hard on what I observe as the mistakes of my liberal brethren. I received no response.) \u00a0Others were annoyed I\u2019d mentioned Mrs. Bush in any way.<\/p>\n
One person angrily referred to the column as a \u201cstretch … you didn\u2019t have to bring Liz Smith into it\u201d \u2014 as if there was not a real friendship and mutual admiration between the women.<\/p>\n
This was my favorite negative missive: \u201cTasteless. Which is something Mrs. Bush never was; to leverage the passing of a human life to further jackhammer liberal political views. If there should ever be a Moratorium on political hatred should it not be now? Please have some decorum or decency.\u201d<\/p>\n
In keeping this space alive, I \u2014 as Liz did \u2014 am always interested in connecting to the readers. \u00a0If somebody does you the favor, as I see it, to read you, and comment with praise or criticism, I feel the need to return that favor. \u00a0I replied: \u201cI am mystified. Where did I \u2018jackhammer\u2019 liberal views \u2014 the fact of her genuine friendship with Liz Smith? The fact that she \u2014 Mrs. Bush \u2014 was so impressed by Miss Smith’s literacy program that she used the basics of it for herself? \u00a0The fact that I separated Mrs. Bush from considerations about her husband and sons? (As did Liz, who actually liked both former presidents, even if she did not agree with them politically.) Or that I praised her life of service and loyalty? So, I apologize for … whatever.\u201d<\/p>\n
I did receive a response to this, which went: \u00a0\u201cNo thank you. I have no interest in a conversation \u2014 we have no esteem for your character. Do not attempt any further communication.\u201d<\/p>\n
I felt bad about this. \u00a0Now, more than ever, I have a great interest in \u201cconversation.\u201d<\/p>\n
Conversation, good sense, moderation in expressing dissent, are utterly nonexistent in most of what passes for political discourse on Fox News, CNN and MSNBC. All pundits and so-called anchors on all three outlets are ridiculous drama queens, vicious demagogues, intellectual midgets who love the sound of their own voices; they are destructive to the moderate center-of-the-road conservative and liberal populace they should be serving.<\/p>\n
The only thing I want to \u201cjackhammer\u201d is a blessed modicum of intelligence from those who preach on high.<\/p>\n
I am not filled with hope.<\/p>\n
P.S.\u00a0 I have also received \u2014 and with a humble appreciation \u2014 quite a few emails wondering where the hell I was last week?\u00a0\u00a0 Truth be told, I had major lapse into depression and lethargy.<\/p>\n
Recent events kinda caught up with me, I think.\u00a0 Although it\u2019s been two years of working from home \u2014 scenic Hoboken \u2014 it is still a struggle.\u00a0 This after 34 years in an office\/apartment, with\u00a0Liz Smith, Mary Jo McDonough, Diane Judge,\u00a0other people and activity, lively chat on elevators, buzzed lunches at El Rio Grande, and long healthy walks to and from the Port Authority. It was, to me, a real working day.\u00a0 Now I move from one room to another \u2014 or often, as I tend to stay up very late and fall asleep on the commodious couch in my \u201cspace\u201d \u2014 move from couch to desk, a full three feet.<\/p>\n
I still wonder at people who say they \u201clove\u201d working from home. \u00a0I hate it. It encourages my social anxiety, which can be extreme, ups my tendency toward depression, and exacerbates an unhealthy desire to isolate.<\/p>\n
I got over it. (\u201cBut, she recovered …\u201d as Judy sighed in \u201cA Star is Born.\u201d) Thanks for asking. \u00a0And I mean that.<\/p>\n
View Article on New York Social Diary<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Fame, Fashion, Art The Work and Life of Designer Charles James … Fashion Musts: Murses and a Shopping Buddy … Mail, Pro and Con, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":9243,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1974],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3111","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-recent-press"],"acf":{"full_width":false,"header_transparent":false,"header_white":false},"yoast_head":"\n
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